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| Route Name |
South Face |
| Category* |
Technical (Rock &/or Ice) |
| Time |
One to two weeks |
| Description |
This is the classic route. Following a
three day approach, the ascent itself is a two day snow/ice climb (up to 50 degrees)
directly up the face. |
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| Route Name |
Huascaran Sur - Garganta Route |
| Category* |
Basic Snow/Ice Climb |
| Rating |
35/45° |
| Time |
Two+ days |
| Description |
This is the normal route, the most popular
in the Cordillera Blanca. It starts from the village of Musho, and follows a generally
well trodden snow path on the mountain's west side. The name Garganta refers to the col
that separates Huascaran Sur and Norte, a dangerous area beneath which many climbers have
been killed by icefall. |
| Route Name |
Huascaran Sur - West Ridge |
| Category* |
Technical (Rock &/or Ice) |
| Rating |
45/50° |
| Time |
Two+ days |
| Description |
This route follows much of the normal
Garganta route, but detours to climb the west ridge, from which the summit plateau is only
a short, steep ice climb away. |
| Route Name |
Huascaran Sur |
| Category* |
Basic Snow/Ice Climb |
| Rating |
40° |
| Time |
Two+ days |
| Description |
This normal route, starting from the
village of Musho, is a straightforward snow climb up the gradually sloping south face and
south ridge. Crevasses are possible. |
| Route Name |
Huascaran Norte - North Face |
| Category* |
Technical (Rock &/or Ice) |
| Rating |
60° / V+ |
| Time |
Four days |
| Description |
Though Huascaran Norte is the smaller
sibling of the two towering summits, its north face is a classic wall route. It features
steep, exposed climbing on a mixture of ice, snow, and rock, requiring at least a pair of
bivouacs. |
| Route Name |
Huascaran Norte - South Face
(Musho Route) |
| Category* |
Basic Snow/Ice Climb |
| Rating |
40° |
| Time |
Two+ days |
| Description |
This normal route, starting from the
village of Musho, is a straightforward snow climb up the gradually sloping south face and
south ridge. Crevasses are possible. |
| Route Name |
Huascaran Norte - Northwest
Ridge |
| Category* |
Technical (Rock &/or Ice) |
| Rating |
50° / V |
| Time |
Two+ days |
| Description |
This route, which also begins at Musho,
features a variety of technical rock and snow challenges on the heavily corniced northwest
ridge. |
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